|
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Extract taken from ' Eat up' in the Sydney Morning Herald.
Written by Keith Austin
Hello, big boy
This old french Friend has been away, but now he's all grown up.
Joseph Bradaric the owner, has gone to great lengths to make sure the
spirit of the original has been translated to the new place. Thus, the deep
red theme has continued and, in the basement level especially, so have
the dungeon-like arches.
A nice touch has been the addition of barred openings in the walls
under the stairs,looking up onto Kent Street also providing reminders
of the Bastille prison in Paris.Bars like these would have held many
an aristocrat before their appointment with the Lady Guillotine.
The beef fillet was to my mind the piece de resistance of the night. How they
get a lump of dead cow this thick so perfectly cooked on the outside and
yet so pink and juicy on the inside is beyond me. When I try this at home
I get charcoal.
La Guillotine has, indeed grown up - the new location is brash
and sexy (love the balconies opening onto the street) and the food more
mature, but done in a way that you can still see the boy in the man.
|
|